MATERIALS & TOOLS:
• Clear Ruler
• L-Ruler
• 1 yard Muslin Fabric
• Pencil
• Pins
• Scissors
• Tape measure
How to drape the front & back bodice:
First Block fabric (see video).
Preparing Front Bodice Fabric:
• On your muslin draw the grain line 1" from salvage edge.
• Fold musline in half & draw a straight line 90 degree from grain line (this will be your Bust Level Line (BLL).
• Measure the Center Front (CF) to Apex, Apex to Side Seam (SS) & add 1/8 inch. Marke these points on your musline.
• Divide the distance from Apex to SS in half & Marking & draw a straight line down (this will be the Center of the Princess Panel (CPP) [this line must be parellel to CF]).
Preparing Back Bodice Fabric:
• On your muslin draw the grain line 1" from salvage edge.
• Measure 3" down (this will be your neckline crossmark)
• Measure 4 1/4 inch from the 3" mark (this will be your Should Blade Level (SBL). Then draw a 90 degree line straight across.
• Measure the SBL on your dress form & Mark musline (you can also add the 1/4 inch ease at this point if you would like).
Attaching the Front Bodice to your Dress Form:
• Ankor the Apex from fabric to Dress Form.
• Pin CF & BLL at bust tape.
• Using an Ankor Point pin CF/Neck, CF/Waist, & BLL/SS (BLL must be parellel to the floor, this is a MUST).
• Then place a pin at CPP/BLL & CPP/waist (this must be 100% vertical, if your BLL is not parellel to the floor this will be off. The placement of CPP will determain the width of your dart and your SS.)
• Waist Dart: gently smooth the fabric away from CF & mark at Waist/Princess Seam, now smooth the fabric towards CF & mark. Pin dart closed with excess of dart push towards CF.
• Slash upto waistline if needed.
• Pin Waist/SS & mark.
• With the side of a pencil mark the side seam (see video). Smooth out fabric at SS pin & pin SS/Armhole.
• Smooth fabric up & over armhole. With the side of a pencil find the plate screw draw a straight line across, mark the end of the armplate & draw a 1/2 inch mark. And pinch this point closed with a pin.
• Cut fabric at neck: leave about 1 inch above neckline at CF and cut 1 inch in & up. Then cut upto the neck line until you get the the Neck/Shoulder. Pin & Mark.
• Shoulder Dart: Smooth fabric away from Center & mark. Then smooth fabric over the shoulder & mark. Pin the shoulder dart closed with excess pushed towards CF.
• Mark the Shoulder Ridge (SR)
Checklist: Make sure the following points are marked.
• CF/Neck, CF/Waist
• Waist, Waist Dart, Waist/SS
• SS, SS/Armhole
• Neck/Shoulder, Shoulder Dart, Shoulder Ridge
Attaching the Back Bodice to your Dress Form:
• Attach the fabric with an ankor point at Center Back (CB)/Neck.
• Pin Shoulder Blade Level (SBL) & Pin the crossmark ease at SBL. Distributing the excess ease along SBL.
• Waist Dart: Smooth out fabric at Waist/Princess Seam, pin & mark then measure out 1 1/4 inch. Pin dart closed with excess fabric pushed toward CB.
• Slash fabric upto waistband, if needed.
• Smooth fabric and pin Waist/SS and up SS to Armhole. With the side of a pencil mark the SS.
• Cut fabric at neck: leave about 1 inch above neckline at CB and cut 1 inch in & up. Then cut upto the neck line until you get the the Neck/Shoulder. Pin & Mark.
• Shoulder Dart: Smooth fabric over shoulder mark the Princess Seam at Shoulder the measure 1/2 inch. Pin dart closed.
• Mark the Shoulder Ridge (SR)
Checklist: Make sure the following points are marked.
• CB/Neck, CB/Waist
• Waist, Waist Dart, Waist/SS
• SS, SS/Armhole
• Neck/Shoulder, Shoulder Dart, Shoulder Ridge